The Jewish community of Hevron offers a daylong tour of their city
every Monday and Wednesday. I really wanted to visit Hevron so I
signed up for the tour. A van picked us up from the Sheraton Plaza Hotel
on King George Street at 9 am. There were five tour-goers: Terry and Alex
Simon from West Hempstead, NY; Mr. and Mrs. Starr who currently live in
Ma'ale Adumim; and me. The van took us to Kiryat Arba where our tour guide
Rabbi Simcha Hochbaum joined us. First we had a quick drive-through of
Kiryat Arba, accompanied by an explanation of why we shouldn't be
content to live in Kiryat Arba (it's not the "real thing").
The old cemetery of Hevron
Beit Hadassah: Here we heard the story of how Rabbanit Levenger and
a group of brave women and children re-inhabited the building in 1979. In
the basement of Beit Hadassah is a little museum dedicated to the history
of Jewish Hevron.
The Avraham Avinu neighborhood: Which reminded me a lot of
Jerusalem's Old City. Inside the Avraham Avinu shul we heard the story of
how the neighborhood got its name:
In the early 1500's, due to starvation and disease, the Jewish
community in Hevron had shrunk to the point that only nine men showed up in shul
on Kol Nidrei night. Suddenly a tenth, old man - a stranger - entered. After
davening, he refused to go to anybody's home to sleep. Instead, he stayed up
all night learning in the shul. The next morning he was there to complete the
minyan again. After the fast as he was walking home with a Hevron resident for
the break-the-fast meal, he vanished. That night the resident had a dream in
which the old man appeared and said he was their grandfather Avraham Avinu. He
couldn't let Yom Kippur pass in his city without a minyan.
David Wilder, Hevron spokesman, spoke with us in the shul for twenty minutes.
I asked, isn't it frustrating to keep explaining and fighting with so few
results? His answer struck me, basically he said that Hevron has been around
forever and will remain forever - and that is the reason they're
there.
Gutnick Center: For lunch
Ma'aras Hamachpelah: Before entering, Simcha reminded us where we
were and repeated the words of the shemoneh esrei: "...Elokei Avraham...
Yitzchak... Yaakov... v'zocher chasdei avos..." In Ohel Avraham we met an
incredible man with curly white hair, a trim beard and glowing face. His
name was Yitzchak. He learns there every day. He gave me a beautiful bracha
that all my requests should be fulfilled.
The van drove back to Kiryat Arba where Simcha left us. Then it took us to